Carefully tending a vat of stock used to account for a hefty chunk of the workload in fine-dining kitchens. Todayswerte gaming, however, says the New York-based chef Yann Nury, “it’s a forgotten skill,” with many restaurants forced to rely on store-bought powder and cubes, owing to cost, time and space constraints. Nury, however, finds those alternatives lacking. “Homemade broth has a purer flavor,” he says. “It tastes more like chicken.” That’s especially true of the stock he makes in his professional catering kitchen in SoHo, where he uses it to deepen the flavor of both his expertly executed comfort food and his more intricate Northern European dishes.
To make his signature broth, Nury relies on an unusual first step that he learned from a client on the Upper East Side, after falling in love with the home cook’s matzo ball soup: He poaches a whole chicken, discards the poaching liquid, and then simmers the bird with lightly sautéed vegetables and herbs for about two hours. This method, he says, ensures that the coagulated proteins from the meat and bones “will already be cooked out,” resulting in an unusually clear, golden soup that doesn’t require constant skimming.
ImageNury’s winter vegetable soup calls for eight cups of the broth, along with root vegetables and a handful of sage. While the ingredient list is simple, the taste is complex, especially if you add a few Parmesan rinds to the pot — which ups the umami — and top it with sourdough croutons fried in sage-infused olive oil. Any remaining stock can be used to deglaze a pan, steam broccoli or cook rice or beans, says Nury, who also relies on broth to add a savory note “and an extra dose of protein” to his pasta sauce. “It’s the greatest flavor enhancer,” he says — and not just for professional kitchens. At his Westchester County home, the fridge and freezer are brimming with quart containers of the stuff.
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Overall, violent crime fell 3 percent and property crime fell 2.6 percent in 2023, with burglaries down 7.6 percent and larceny down 4.4 percent. Car thefts, though, continue to be an exception, rising more than 12 percent from the year before.
But the move backfired in a way that few supporters expected. Californians in 2021 actually tossed nearly 50 percent more plastic bags, by weight, than when the law first passed in 2014, according to data from CalRecycle, California’s recycling agency.
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